Saturday, February 27, 2016

Jageshwar and then on to to Chaukori

The KMVN resort opposite the temple complex at Jageshwar has 2 buildings.  While we were housed at the old building, the new one seemed really attractive.  For one it was spanking new.  Secondly, it had a balcony running outside the rooms.  From there one could gaze at the temples and the forest behind it, from the comforts of one's room.

Jageshwar is a temple town.  Jageshwar Dhaam is how it is referred to.  Jageshwar is a temple complex. There are shrines dedicated to Mrtyunjaya Mahadev and Jageshwar


We were up early and took a stroll down the street,  before the pilgrims and the faithful could arrive.

As in the poster I had seen 7 years ago, the tall deodars stood guard behind the temples   The deodars are also known as Daruka, the deodar forests - Daruka Ban





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The temple complex was open.  The priests were  attending to the morning pooja rituals. The chant of 'Mahadev' reverberated from the sanctums of the Shiva temples... The air was pleasantly heady with   the fragrance of the incense sticks, the dhoop, the camphor , while tendrils of smoke  arose out of a havan accompanied by the fragrance of the  'samagri' being consumed  .. the tinkling of the pooja ghanti, the occasional clang of the temple bells, the rhythmic hum  of  the shlokas being read out of pooja books.

The vendors outside the temple were just opening their shops and setting up their wares.   Flowers, prasaad, metal ware, idols and the damroo.

It was quite a feeling, being there, soaking up the atmosphere... spiritual almost.

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The Jageshwar Jyotirlinga



Maha Mrutyunjay Mahadev





 
A mighty deodar



A temple dedicated to Lakulisa also stands in the complex,  On the arch of the temple is depicted Lakulisa with his characteristic staff in hand.  He is shown flanked by four disciples.










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Another temple closeby, in the same complex is dedicated to Nataraja.  The arch depicts Shiva as Nataraja, flanked by musicians and  Kartikeya and Ganesha






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Do notice the latticed windows on the side.

The amlaka at the top of the temple sphire is something which draws me to the temples of Orissa and I find it here in Jageshwar in Uttarakhand .  Amlaka - the carved stone disk with serrations, on which rests the kalasha. The amlaka is typical of the Nagara style of architecture.The amlaka is suggestive of a lotus, and also of the sun.  The lotus as a seat of the deity - the association is acceptableIt is said that the deity in the sanctum sanctorum of the temple is directly below the amlaka and the kalasha,  which is the highest point of the temple.

  Someday I must get to reading on temple architecture. 







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A temple here has the characteristic Buddhist Chaitya like architecture.



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A very drowsy monkey astride a 'lion'

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Jageshwar town is a typical chaotic  mish mash of the old traditional homes and the modern constructions.  I couldn't help notice the contrast.  The old buildings, with their  dark wood, seasoned with time, the jharokha like windows,  the decorative motifs carved on the door frames.... each home distinct in its appeal from the other . For me, the traditional appeals... always!!






 










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Jageshwar has a small museum which houses idols  recovered from the temple complexes.  There are very beautiful stone idols with intricate carvings.  An idol of Surya and another of Shiva Parvati......I couldn't take my eyes off them.  The museum is maintained by ASI and photography is not permitted.  However a google search brought me to this page where there are  pictures of  few of the exhibits.  The pictures do not do adequate justice though.  http://www.asidehraduncircle.in/museums.html


A little away from Jageshwar is the Dandeshwar temple.   Here the Shiva linga is not like the carved image we are so used to seeing.  The Shiva linga here is  in the form of a rock.  The priest had told us the story of Dandeshwar where  Danda meant  punishment.   Sadly,  I did not make a note of it and am unable to recollect it .  While looking up the internet for the same, I came upon a blog which explains the same.  Copy pasting the same with a link to the blog. 

http://bugshead.blogspot.in/2009/12/jageshwar-deodar-heaven.html

After Parvati dedicated herself to Yagya-Kund, Shiva got depressed and started to roam in the daruvan (deodar) of Jageshwar as a nude sage. Saptkeshwar’s wife who was collecting the kandmool phal (beat roots) got horrified at the sight of nude sage and reported this to husband. The sage Saptkeshwar agitated on this and without knowing that it was Shiva, cursed the nude sage. This place is called Dandeshwar Mahadev – a km before Jageshwar temples. Though it didn’t affect the lord Shiva but then to honour the Saptkeshwar’s word, Shiva himself disintegrated his ling



Dandeshwar temple







Dandeshwar.



We   leave for Munsyari in the morning, breaking jpurney at Chaulori for the night.  We  will spend 4 days in Munsyari and return back to Chaukori for a day or two and visit Patal Bhuvaneshwar.  The drive promises to be a beautiful one.  The roads are in good condition.  On either sides we are flanked by hills and valleys, covered with pines. 



a rose tinted view.. through my sun glasses


 




























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