The KMVN resort opposite the temple complex at Jageshwar has 2
buildings. While we were housed at the old building, the new one seemed
really attractive. For one it was spanking new. Secondly, it had a
balcony running outside the rooms. From there one could gaze at the
temples and the forest behind it, from the comforts of one's room.
Jageshwar is a temple town. Jageshwar Dhaam is how it is referred to. Jageshwar is a temple complex. There are shrines dedicated to Mrtyunjaya Mahadev and Jageshwar
We were up early and took a stroll down the street, before the pilgrims and the faithful could arrive.
As in the poster I had seen 7 years ago, the tall deodars stood guard behind the temples The deodars are also known as Daruka, the deodar forests - Daruka Ban
The
temple complex was open. The priests were attending to the morning
pooja rituals. The chant of 'Mahadev' reverberated from the sanctums of
the Shiva temples... The air was pleasantly heady with the fragrance
of the incense sticks, the dhoop, the camphor , while tendrils of smoke
arose out of a havan accompanied by the fragrance of the 'samagri'
being consumed .. the tinkling of the pooja ghanti, the occasional
clang of the temple bells, the rhythmic hum of the shlokas being read
out of pooja books.
The vendors outside the temple were just
opening their shops and setting up their wares. Flowers, prasaad,
metal ware, idols and the damroo.
It was quite a feeling, being there, soaking up the atmosphere... spiritual almost.
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The Jageshwar Jyotirlinga |
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Maha Mrutyunjay Mahadev |
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A mighty deodar |
A temple dedicated to Lakulisa also stands in the complex, On the arch of the temple is depicted Lakulisa with his characteristic staff in hand. He is shown flanked by four disciples.
Another temple closeby, in the same complex is dedicated to Nataraja. The arch depicts Shiva as Nataraja, flanked by musicians and Kartikeya and Ganesha
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Do notice the latticed windows on the side. |
The
amlaka at the top of the temple sphire is something which draws me to
the temples of Orissa and I find it here in Jageshwar in Uttarakhand .
Amlaka -
the carved stone disk with serrations, on which rests the kalasha. The
amlaka is typical of the Nagara style of architecture.The amlaka is
suggestive of a lotus, and also of the sun. The lotus as a seat of the
deity - the association is acceptable.
It
is said that the deity in the sanctum sanctorum of the temple is
directly below the amlaka and the kalasha, which is the highest point of the temple.
Someday I must get to reading on temple architecture.
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A temple here has the characteristic Buddhist Chaitya like architecture. |
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A very drowsy monkey astride a 'lion' |
Jageshwar has a small museum which houses idols recovered from the temple complexes. There are very beautiful stone idols with intricate carvings. An idol of Surya and another of Shiva Parvati......I couldn't take my eyes off them. The museum is maintained by ASI and photography is not permitted. However a google search brought me to this page where there are pictures of few of the exhibits. The pictures do not do adequate justice though. http://www.asidehraduncircle.in/museums.html
A little away from Jageshwar is the Dandeshwar temple. Here the Shiva linga is not like the carved image we are so used to seeing. The Shiva linga here is in the form of a rock. The priest had told us the story of Dandeshwar where Danda meant punishment. Sadly, I did not make a note of it and am unable to recollect it . While looking up the internet for the same, I came upon a blog which explains the same. Copy pasting the same with a link to the blog.
http://bugshead.blogspot.in/2009/12/jageshwar-deodar-heaven.html
After Parvati
dedicated herself to Yagya-Kund, Shiva got depressed and started to roam
in the daruvan (deodar) of Jageshwar as a nude sage. Saptkeshwar’s wife
who was collecting the kandmool phal (beat roots) got horrified at the
sight of nude sage and reported this to husband. The sage Saptkeshwar
agitated on this and without knowing that it was Shiva, cursed the nude
sage. This place is called Dandeshwar Mahadev – a km before Jageshwar temples. Though it didn’t affect the lord Shiva but then to honour the Saptkeshwar’s word, Shiva himself disintegrated his ling
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Dandeshwar temple |
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Dandeshwar. | | |
We
leave for Munsyari in the morning, breaking jpurney at Chaulori for the night. We will spend 4 days in Munsyari and return
back to Chaukori for a day or two and visit Patal Bhuvaneshwar. The drive promises to be a beautiful one. The roads are in good condition. On either sides we are flanked by hills and valleys, covered with pines.
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a rose tinted view.. through my sun glasses |
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