I travelled.. You read!: LEH April 2013. Day 6. Return From Deskit to Leh via Khardungla once again.

Day 6

Yesterday noon we arrived in Deskit. Later in the morning we were to drive to Leh, through Khardungla. The thought worried me. I did not want to experience a repeat performance of the other day at Khardungla.

Today morning we went upto Panamik. Panamik is a town on the ancient silk route. Panamik is also known for its hot sulphut springs. We drove for nearly two hrs. the drive was pretty boring. Rocky mountains with lots of boulders around. You could feel the heat.

The driver pointed out a pair of Ibex on a hill slope. They are a shy specie and galloped away when we halted to take a good look at them.

Panamik otherwise is a dull village.

The hot springs are manned by 2 women, who manage the ticketing . the enterprising duo also bring along 2 big thermos full of tea which visitors love to have a sip of.

At the hot springs, there are 2 bathing areas for the men n the women. Inside there is bathing tank and bathing rooms. A water pipe brings in the hot water from the springs. The idea though awesome, is a badly implemented one. One is not too keen to take a dip – cleanliness issues. The hot water comes from a place above on a cliff. The whole rock above is yellow with the sulphur and looks slimy. The hot steam vapors look inviting in the cold though.

This drive is really not worth the trouble. It is too much trouble actually.

On the way back we visit a monastery, which is cheerful looking.

We arrive in north Pullu in time for lunch, we had decided as much. Today we would climb up to Khardungla on a full tummy.

A restaurant there had opened for the season just today. The “aunty’ - a wisened old ladakhi woman, managed the place with the help of an able assistant. She reminded me of the wicked witch from Hansel an Gretel as she pottered about in her dark kitchen. She was very possessive about her property. U had to buy something from her, to be able to sit there or even use her washroom. We had brought along a packed lunch. In these cold mountainous regions, even the smallest 'hole - in - the - wall eatery' would gladly heat your packed lunch for you. and in return one bought something from them...biscuits, choclolates, tea...or just a bowl of piping hot Maggi noodles.

After lunch we embarked on the dreaded drive up to Khardungla. It was our lucky day. No traffic, no landslides and once again it was just us for kms together, all throughout the drive.

We reached Leh by around 4.30 and To Market To market , it was. The best buy of the day was a Tshirt which said, “My sis went to Ladakh and all I got from her was this bloody T shirt. It was a wicked one. We immediately picked them for the son and the young nephews.

Also bought a small Ladakhi table.. It is a folding table. We got it wrapped securely. It would be part of our checked in luggage.

Our tour operator gifted us a couple of music CDs.. Tibetan chants.

Tonight we are booked at Ladakh Serai, which offers accommodation in Mongolian Yurt style tents. They are simply round shaped tents, big, and self contained. The best feature is the wood fired Bukhara, which keeps the room warm. Very warm. Yetserday it had rained in most parts in Ladakh. And in Leh the temperature was a –2. so the heater was something we were delighted to see. The husband was happy that the tent had a TV. IPL ka mazaa jo lena tha.

Tomorrow morning we travel thru the Chang La Pass and come down to the Pangong Lake. That is something I am looking forward too. But yahaan bhi ek badaa saa catch hai. The lake is apparently frozen. The accommodation is a tented one. It will be awfully cold there with the winds, the snowy mountains and the frozen lake. We will take a call on staying there tomorrow. We might just come back to Leh for the night.

The vacation is coming to an end. And I have mixed feelings. I am happy that the wish list is being tackled. Leh. It has been a mixed bag of emotions. Likes dislikes, and strong ones at that. The mind wants the exotic, raw, nearly virgin locations , the body wants the luxuries .

Someday I will be back..Lamaryu, Alchi and Tso Mori ri beckon..