Vishrambaugwada

Pune has a special place in my heart .  Upto 1985 I have spent at least  one  vacation in Pune, each year . .  with my maternal  aunt and my maternal grandmother ,  being spoilt silly by both of them and my cousin brothers who are about 13 yrs older to me

The chilly winters, the hot summers and on one occasion , a hailstorm too.  I remember running through the backyard of my aunt’s house,  wanting to pick up a couple  of ‘gaara’, that’s what the hailstones  are called in Marathi and stuff them  in my mouth, convinced that they would taste like kulfi.

The  Peths , named after the days of the week, the quaint waadaas, with the carved wooden doors and windows and arches. all with  a  charm of their own.

Pune today, is  a blend of the old and the new.

For the past couple of yrs,   my trips to Pune have been cut down to once in maybe 3 yrs and that too over the weekend and sometimes, just a day trip.  Mostly visiting family.

Laxmi Road in Pune holds a great  fascination for me.  Reminding me of the times when I used to shop for Diwali stuff with my aunt.  Kandeel, lights,  Sweets from Chitale…….. jostling  through the  crowded streets.

The last couple of times I was on Laxmi road, I was looking out for ‘ Pitalechi  bhatuklichi khelni’ for the daughter.   A kitchen set, with the utensils made from brass.  Some in copper too.   And on both those 2 occasions I happened to pass by an impressive structure  standing out prominently  from amongst the  scores of nondescript stores and shops around it.  It had an elaborately carved balcony in dark wood.  It had carved wooden  arches, beautiful  tall wooden windows.

Vishrambaug wada

 

 The balcony

One look at it and the surroundings snd I was smitten.  From my sister, I gathered that it was the Vishrambaug Wada.   I made a note of it, determined to visit it on my next trip.  She said  that it now housed the Post Office.    I was  most  disappointed.  But somehow,  I just could not get it out of my mind  and when we planned a weekend trip to Pune, along with Sinhagad,  Khadakvasla, and Raja Kelkar Museum, Vishrambaug Wada was on my ‘Will Visit’ list.

So there I was on Sunday.   On Lakshmi Road , outside the Vishrambaug Wada.   My sister had prepared me well,  with info about how difficult it would be, to locate  the entrance  , what with the scores of hawkers displaying their wares around., of how I could trip over a vagrant trying to catch his forty winks…….  None of this dampened my enthusiasm.  So husband in tow,  I entered  THE waadaa.

This was a 2 storeyed structure.  As is typical , there were 2 raised platforms on either sides of the main entrance .  There were very beautifully carved pillars on these stone platforms,  supporting the floor above.  Solid wooden pillars.   The kind which are warm to touch, when u put yr arms around them.   A  witness to the events of the several decades and centuries .  Vishrambag wada was built around 1807.  It was home to Bajirao Peshwa II, who (it is said) preferred this wada as his residence as against the Shaniwar wada.

the entrance to the wada

one of the raised stone platforms. the main entrance is flanked
 by these on either side

On entering the wada the husband and I were taking in the sights..... me , of the intricate woodwork..

the husband, of the blackboards hanging  outside the 2 rooms on either side of the entrance.   While this one, mentioned 'garam misal', kairi bhel, and laddo, the other room stocked 'garama garam batata wada' and' kairi panhe'.  This police 'mama' wanted to know if I was from the Press.  ' nahitar, amhi apley ikde basloy asey  bolat and udya tumhi  hey foto paperaat chhaapun taakaal', he said!

 

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The pillars

 

What would The Peshwa feel while taking in this sight! His name, in a postal address.
 For that matter, his home, a Post Office??

The ground floor also houses a handicraft store, selling bags, purses, files, mobile covers , all made

in bright handloom fabric.  and  the typical   Maharashtrian "khan" (खण ) material too. I was attracted to the  figures of maharashtrian women dressed in trafitional finery , dressed in 'bharzari nau vaari saree',  adorned with the  traditional nosering - the  nath, and the  mani mangalsutra'.  There were many more of these dolls... a marathi bride and groom too,   also a few stuffed animals , keychains and such stuff.

the staircase leading to the hall on the first floor

a panoramic view , once you enter. 

The  staircase leads to a hall on the first floor. This hall houses an exhibition.  Entry charge to this hall is Rs 3.   It has a couple of pictures of old Pune and some maps. A blog I happened to read, mentions that this hall could be a dancing hall of the Peshwa.  It has several carved columns,  carved ceiling and arches too, all in dark wood.  There are a few antique lamps hanging from the ceiling,  called 'handya, ( हंड्या )   .  The place is tackily done up in yellow satin curtains. The windows are dressed in  sequinned curtains in yellow and red, all in an attempt to emphasise the grandeur.  For me, the place would have  worked without these embellishments .

 The  pillars, the arches  though imposing  are not  overpowering or domineering in their  grandeur .   And despite the bare , cold stone floor, there is a warmth, and an  intense sense of belonging.   The entrance to the famed balcony is through this hall.  But one cannot venture out there.  The door remains locked and we can peer into it by putting our head out from the windows on either side.

And now , the pictures.

the carved ceiling at the centre of the hall

the doors in this picture open out into the balcony. 
unfortunately it is out of bounds for visitors.

the details on the pillars

the quaint celing lamps, called 'handya' ( हंड्या )

the balcony - a closer look

 

peering into the balcony ... with a zoomed in camera.

another detail on the balcony.. carrying the weight of the 
roof on its head!

a herd of elephants... purchased at the handicraft store at the Wada

Laxmi Road has is a haven for   hoarders  ........ and  I indulged !

a miniature version of the 'gudi' which is hoisted on 
Gudi Padva... a laxmi road purchase

a mejwani , served on a plaintain leaf, knitted wonders, in wool. the plaintain leaf too.
 from left - modak, karanji, jilebi, tomato koshimbir, a lemon wedge, chutney, salt. at the
centre of the leaf - varan bhaat and keshari bhat - garnished with a raisin and a cashew.
 bottom row - masale bhaat, a mound of white rice piled with a green vegetable gravy
- most likely aloo and lastly there is the batatyachi bhaji.

'bhatukli chi bhaandi' .....utensil in brass to be added to the 
daughter's kitchen set.

a miniature model of the modak patra - a brass vessel 
used to steam modak. again, an addition to the kitchen set

Of course, no trip to Laxmi Road is complete without a visit to the famed Chitale Bandhu for our fix of   Jumbo Pedha, Dharwad Pedhe, Bakarwadi, Karanji, Lasoon sev...... heeehee,  of these,  there are no photographs.  You just have to take my word for it!


More information available at  : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vishrambaug_Wada