LEH April 2013 day 5. Deskit, Hunder and the Bactrian camels.

Day 5

Today we were to leave Turtuk behind and come back to Deskit.

It had rained all night yesterday in Turtuk and even snowed a bit on the peaks. The peaks looked as if they were neatly garnished with a generous sprinkling  of icing sugar..

It is an emotional goodbye as I leave behind the paradise that is Turtuk. I am too involved in my mind, with the Turtukians and the village. Everything about the place and the people.

Life will go as before for them and for me too.

Trips like this one are not adventures to boast or brag about but are experiences to be savored and which help one evolve.

I have left a piece of me behind in Turtuk , just as I have taken a bit of Turtuk with me.

I think I am coming back wanting less, needing less, cleansed of the demands of the material. Content.

There is bit of sniffling frm the women in our car. Eyes moistened with tears...The daughter's -  because the vacation doesn’t seem to end.  Mine ...because it will .

As we drive away from Turtuk, we are back to the views of the bare and rugged looking mountains. There is a beauty in this rugged ness, in the barren. As I would say in marathi…”ओबड धोबड  आणि रखरखीत .. रुक्ष ..यात ही सौन्दर्य दडलेले असतेच .. जसें सुबक पणात असते "

We reached the Hunder desert by about 2.00 pm. Camel rides take place here from 9.00 am to 12.00 pm daily and then from 3.00 pm to 6.pm.

There are many accommodation options  available here, including the tented ones. 

The daughter had declared that she didn’t want to go on a camel ride.. I wasn’t too sure. I wanted to see the double humped Bactrian camels so unique to this place. These were left behind during the wars they say. Their place of origin is in Afghanistan. Whatever.. I don’t know how much of this is true. I wanted to take the ride for another reason – the sand dunes. I had seen the patterns made by the winds on the dunes from afar. They looked pretty.

One look at the camels and we were filled with pity. They were yet to be decked up in their finery..and we realised they  were badly in need of  a wash, or even just a good scrub.   Their fur was matted... . They had  been rubbing their bodies on the thorny shrubs and had managed to peel clumps of fur from their body. These clumps fluttered from the shrubs because of the wind. They looked ill. The camel owners finished their lunch and fed half a chapatti to each of the camels. We decided we had seen enough. We had gotten our pictures and we left for Deskit once more .. for our overnight  halt at Stendel.

Lunch at 3.00 pm was a delicious Chinese meal…. Noodles, fried rice, Manchurian.. the works.

It was gusty and there was no electricity. So we indulged in our favourite pastime – 'dhoop senkna' 

A furry white pup gave us company and with just us in the hotel, we could well imagine ourselves to be the decadent owners of the mansion, relaxing on the lawns, a happy family, mountains and snow capped peaks around us, and even a dog. Life ho toh aisi.

At around 5.00 pm we went for a short drive. On our drive to Turtuk yesterday morning, I had spied a small swamp. There was a biggish puddle and cattle and some horses were grazing around the puddle. The beauty of the scenario was that the puddle was crystal clear. Not a ripple and the horse was clearly reflected in it. I had seen the exact picture in a blog I had read . As is typical of me, I am always a case of opportunity lost. I thought I would look out fr it on our return journey today. On our return drive at noon I found  the swamp, as also  the puddle ...and the clear water, perfectly reflecting the evening sky.  What was missing,  was the horse. Not one to give up, i thought , in any case we were to drive towards the Deskit Gompa in the evening and  I would take a chance once again. No… fate wasn’t kind. I didn’t deserve the kindness either. I have to learn my lesson – THE BEST TIME IS NOW.

At Deskit there is a tall statue of the maitreya Buddha erected here in 2007. some call it the Future Buddha, mainly because of the sitting posture. The Buddha is not in Padmasana, but is sitting as if he is sitting on a chair. There is a serenity in the air. The idol is extremely attractive. Each feature, the eyes, the fingers , the toes, the toe nails… beautiful craftsmanship. It evokes devotion. There is an  ancient monastery in the background... it is one such moment .., you simply bow down your head and pray.

This place is on top of a hill and the view around is ,yes, breathtaking. It is extremely windy and chilly. Such is the weather here... You dress in yr woolens and walk out to the car in anticipation of the cold. You sweat it out in the warm car. You alight at your destination wanting to peel of the sweaters and you are beaten dead cold by the wind. We stay there for quite some time,, soaking in the serenity and the beauty.

On the way back we stop by at the market. There are Tshirts, scarves, woolen wear crockery, fruits and veggies. Like in Leh the vegetable stalls are stocked with brinjals, cauloflweres, cabbages, tomatoes , potatoes, onions, lady fingers, garlic, bananas, mangoes, melons, and grapes. The daughter had set her eyes on a Bob Malrey T. but shops close by 5.30 pm and when we returned we were left to ogle at it from outside the window. She is taking after me. Chance pe dance nahi kiya !

We walk back to the resort. The village is quiet.

It is seven pm and it is dark. No power. Not until 7.40 pm.

I have to charge the camera and the phones. The mobiles which were out of coverage area for the past 3 days might spring to life tomorrow evening. 

Tomorrow we drive to Pamanik which was one of the townships on the ancient Silk route. There are hot water springs here. From Pamanik we ascend to Khardungla and then descend into Leh. The journey to and beyond Khardungla is not one I am looking forward to. Today also it seemed like a bad day for those who crossed over. Cars were seen cruising into Leh only after 5.00 pm

Yesterday and today have been the best days of our vacation. The picturesque surroundings helped and also the fact that for the entire duration of the drive , yesterday and today, ours was the only vehicle on the road. No crowds. Just us, the mountains, the river and the roads.

Just the way we like it !

double humped bactrian camels