day 2
The day began uneventfully. With a mild head
ache too. The night was a bad one. I kept tossing n turning and
waking up every couple of hrs. If last night the sleep intervals lasted
for 3 hrs in a row, today it was a 1.5 hr routine. Would wake up exactly
1.5 hrs later each time. Was worried if the headache was due to the
soft mattress, the cold, or the oxygen - the lack of it.
Today was sight seeing around Leh. So we went to Hemis
first. Hemis is the one I think where Kareena Kapoor danced in to a song in the movie Jab we met.
The monastery is beautiful with a big courtyard. It has a museum too. There are 2 main idols here one of the Buddha and the other huge idol is of Guru Padmasambhave. Huge is around 9 -10 feet.
The monasteries as usual are colorfully embellished....red blue orange green and gold being the dominant colors. The main sanctum has several other idols of their religious heads too. The main hall had low benches and tables laid out, furnished with warm seat rests for the llamas as they recite the prayers. The structure is wooden and stone and is cold to the feet. It is beautiful.
I think, it is the courtyard that works for it.
The whole monastery is gaily painted a bright red yellow and green n blue. The museum here is worth a dekko.... On display are stone, brass and bronze cooking vessels, idols, adornments, currency.too. plus weaponry.
The monastery is beautiful with a big courtyard. It has a museum too. There are 2 main idols here one of the Buddha and the other huge idol is of Guru Padmasambhave. Huge is around 9 -10 feet.
The monasteries as usual are colorfully embellished....red blue orange green and gold being the dominant colors. The main sanctum has several other idols of their religious heads too. The main hall had low benches and tables laid out, furnished with warm seat rests for the llamas as they recite the prayers. The structure is wooden and stone and is cold to the feet. It is beautiful.
I think, it is the courtyard that works for it.
The whole monastery is gaily painted a bright red yellow and green n blue. The museum here is worth a dekko.... On display are stone, brass and bronze cooking vessels, idols, adornments, currency.too. plus weaponry.
The drive to the
monastery was unimpressive. I ended up comparing it to Spiti and Leh
compared unfavorably. I was left wondering whether I was right in
coming here at all.
Leh seems to be a confused township. They need the tourists and are non nonchalant abt them..almost dismissive . They want to retain their unique charm and want to go modern all at the same time . The architecture and layout of the township and its outskirts are a confused mishmash. One reason could be the cloud burst and the floods of 2010. everything got washed out and is now rebuilt.
The unbaked mud bricks which were used to build houses are now bricks and mortar. The simple, traditional brown and black framed windows are now replaced by beautiful carved wood and in some places these too are painted a bubble gum pink. Fancy grills grace the windows . Even several kms out of the city of Leh, the townships are characterless and nothing appeals. I end up comparing it to Spiti which was so earthy and raw . Virgin too. The mountains which were lofty, closely set and which held us in awe in Spiti , are here spaced far, with wide plains in between,. The mountains are more dusty than rocky. Everything around is dusty and no I wasn’t happy.
Leh seems to be a confused township. They need the tourists and are non nonchalant abt them..almost dismissive . They want to retain their unique charm and want to go modern all at the same time . The architecture and layout of the township and its outskirts are a confused mishmash. One reason could be the cloud burst and the floods of 2010. everything got washed out and is now rebuilt.
The unbaked mud bricks which were used to build houses are now bricks and mortar. The simple, traditional brown and black framed windows are now replaced by beautiful carved wood and in some places these too are painted a bubble gum pink. Fancy grills grace the windows . Even several kms out of the city of Leh, the townships are characterless and nothing appeals. I end up comparing it to Spiti which was so earthy and raw . Virgin too. The mountains which were lofty, closely set and which held us in awe in Spiti , are here spaced far, with wide plains in between,. The mountains are more dusty than rocky. Everything around is dusty and no I wasn’t happy.
We
went to the Thiksey monastery and then the Shey palace. Disappointments
again. Nothing to beat the Key and Kibber and Dhankar monasteries of
Spiti. I am angry with myself for not giving the place a chance to
grow on me. I am rejecting it outright. I hope I don’t regret it later
as I shut myself out. I am just not getting involved with this place.
The
tourist season has not really begun in Leh. The roads from srinagar and manali haven’t
opened yet. The influx into leh is mainly brought in by air.
Every 'must- see' location in Leh has abt 6 – 8 cars parked outside with abt 50 people around. This soon becomes yet another sore point with me . In spiti we used to be the only ones everywhere and anywhere.
Spiti is the poor man's Leh they say. For me leh doesn’t match upto spiti .
Every 'must- see' location in Leh has abt 6 – 8 cars parked outside with abt 50 people around. This soon becomes yet another sore point with me . In spiti we used to be the only ones everywhere and anywhere.
Spiti is the poor man's Leh they say. For me leh doesn’t match upto spiti .
For lunch we were booked at a ladakhi home.
Traditional home wth traditional food. The food was yum. Momos, gud gud
chai, soup, ladakhi roti, sabbzi ,dahi ,canned apricot and green tea.
The momos were well done, more sophisticated than the ones we had had in
spiti. The fried momos tasted
better than the steamed ones. The chutney with these, hit the right notes, balancing the spicy with the tangy.
The sabzi with pasta made of atta was great. The tinned apricots served as desert were awesome.
The namekeen chai –I had a feeling it wasn’t the authentic gud gud chai, for one, the gud gud seemed missing. It tasted like a cream of mushroom soup with Amul butter for the salt. There is no trace of the chai we are used to. More like a buttery soup. Verdict - I liked it, though I am sure it wasn’t the real thing. The tea is poured frm a pretty copper kamandalu kind of a kettle, which is kept warm in a clay or copper pot with embers in it.
The sabzi with pasta made of atta was great. The tinned apricots served as desert were awesome.
The namekeen chai –I had a feeling it wasn’t the authentic gud gud chai, for one, the gud gud seemed missing. It tasted like a cream of mushroom soup with Amul butter for the salt. There is no trace of the chai we are used to. More like a buttery soup. Verdict - I liked it, though I am sure it wasn’t the real thing. The tea is poured frm a pretty copper kamandalu kind of a kettle, which is kept warm in a clay or copper pot with embers in it.
We then visited her ancestral house next
door. Nearly 200 yrs old.
The lady speaks a spattering of English - 'Mind your head', she keeps telling us. We saw her old kitchen with store houses for wheat n barley beneath the kitchen and bedroom flr. There were clay storages fr atta. Her kitchen also had an old fireplace where the family gathered for conversation and food. The guest room on the floor above showcases their traditional clothes and ornaments.. Enthusiasts can don these.. a photo op!
The lady speaks a spattering of English - 'Mind your head', she keeps telling us. We saw her old kitchen with store houses for wheat n barley beneath the kitchen and bedroom flr. There were clay storages fr atta. Her kitchen also had an old fireplace where the family gathered for conversation and food. The guest room on the floor above showcases their traditional clothes and ornaments.. Enthusiasts can don these.. a photo op!
The visit to this place changed things fr me. Leh was finally touching a chord.
From here we went to Magnetic hill and the Sindhu Zanskaar sangam. We were now on the Kargil road. Goosebumps!!
Magnetic hill was fun, where the hill with its magnetic powers pulls a stationary vehicle towards it.
From here we proceeded to the sindhu darshan. The aqua green sindhu/Indus and the bright
'Mauritius'blue zanskar meet here.
The “ I love rivers feeling” was reiterated. We went down to the confluence. Sindu, the Indus. The rivers were inviting. One wanted to sit on the banks and stare.. Take in the sight..all of it. Go flip flop in the water… But the sindhu was so awe inspiring, I ended up dipping my hands reverentially. No I did not do the maatha teko nor sprinkle any water on the head, but I did pick a pebble frm the river.
The “ I love rivers feeling” was reiterated. We went down to the confluence. Sindu, the Indus. The rivers were inviting. One wanted to sit on the banks and stare.. Take in the sight..all of it. Go flip flop in the water… But the sindhu was so awe inspiring, I ended up dipping my hands reverentially. No I did not do the maatha teko nor sprinkle any water on the head, but I did pick a pebble frm the river.
Frm here we went to the patthar sahab gurudwara. A
gurudwara maintained by the army. They treat u to boondi and chai as
Prasad, they do it with a lot of devotion and sincerity.
Sometime soon I would love doing a road trip to Kargil and Dras and feel the rush.
It was evening and went to the Hall of fame, army museum. With pics of Siachen, of how they
man the post,of how they train , what they eat, their weapons, gear…...
Most of it is also dedicated to the operation Vijay and then more. It
was good.
I missed the son.
Once again I was left wondering. Why did it take me 21 yrs to come to Leh Ladakh. It is just a couple of hrs away…
We have been in Leh for 2 days now and are now suitably acclamatised to attempt the Khardungla cross over. Tomorrow
we cross Khardungla. The highest motorable road. We have been told to
lighten our bags and leave most stuff behind as we go camping at Turtuk .
Turtuk is going to be warmer than leh. We will be passing through the nubra valley.
We come back 3 days later after covering Deskit and seeing the Bactrian
camels at the deserts of Hunder.
I am losing track of day and date.... mark of a successful vacation!! . Hope
this vacation turns out to be a good one.
Wake up at 6 tomorrow
- hemis monastery
- a traditonal kitchen in a traditional Ladakhi home.. 100 yrs old.
- a picture of our soldiers at Siachen... Hall of fame Museum
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